Kalinga: Authentically Tattooed

Having a tattoo had always been in my mind. But many factors limit me from doing so. Like my hair braids, that I try to have when am on a long vacation, away from the confines of a conventional world that I choose to live in. So whenever I can, I let my skin get inked with henna.









Deep within my heart is a raging spirit of love for the native, tribal, and authentic; of the world of the ancient times and the beginnings. Being different from the normal scheme of things, for me, is what makes me sensible and tranquil. Sometimes, I want to think and believe that I come from a tribe. This got me thinking seriously when I was in South Cotabato, particularly in Lake Sebu, where the the Tboli tribe exist. Instead of asking me a usual “where are you from?” or “where do you live?”, the Tboli woman spontaneously asked me, that left me stunned until today, “from what tribe are you?”


In past travels, I have found myself amazed at the Mangyans of Occidental Mindoro, Igorots of Mountain Province, Aetas of Zambales, Tagbanuas of Coron Island, Palawan. And am on my way at finding the Negritos of Apayao Mountains, who I have seen in my childhood days, the Manobos of Bukidnon, and search for more tribes. That faraway island, Babuyan Claro, whose Chieftain I met in a ferry ride upnorth, left me with so much interest of ancestral domains.


So, here I am, in Kalinga, at Tinglayan Tribe, savoring every word they utter at their language. It is more than a song to my ears.


This unscathed landscape with beautiful mountain ranges and well-sustained rice terraces is an ancestral domain.






Mount Mating-oy or Sleeping Beauty Mountain at sunrise


The rainy ambiance cools down my mind and pushes me to think clearly of things to come.






Two-hour trek away is where the oldest tattoo artist or “mambabatok” dwells; by the name of Fang-Od, as natives call her. Her name is spelled as Wang-Od or Whang-od, says her niece.





Wang-Od, Fang-Od or Whang-Od: the oldest Kalinga Mambabatok (Tattoo Artist)


Earlier, I have already seen the fine-looking, eccentric inks in the skins of two well-designed women, Chummangyag and Uwong. And I am struck with admiration. In Buscalan village, the sister of Fang-Od, named Kanna, is also skilfully tattooed.






with Chummangyag, with my all-time necklace (she requested it) :)





with Uwong, the mother of Francis Pa-in, the tour guide







with Kanna, the sister of Fang-Od


In my desire of authenticity of my existence, I am certain to get painted with a symbol that will be marked in my being; that according to Kalinga belief, a tattoo that will not be left on my body on earth, but will soar to the heavenly paradise with my soul, when my life reaches its conclusion in this world of great magnificence.





Fang-Od wearing the headware that I gave


Like my tattoo, may I leave a mark in the hearts that are touched in the things that I love to do; in the lives of people who are stroked by the goodness and the happiness that I spread in my not so ordinary travels.





ouchie!






I am Authentically Tattooed. In me. And in you.


Ammodnan ayat on si~a!


(May all the love be with you!)