Kalinga's Wang-Od: How To See Buscalan's Oldest Tribal Tattoo Artist

Eversince I wrote about how I got inked by Wang-Od, the oldest tribal tattoo artist of the Philippines, I realized many people would like to meet her.Since I usually do not write the how to's to my trips, because of my reason, that I usually do not have an itineray, and just pack & go, I was asked by many and I really am surprised how eager they are to go to Buscalan.

From Manila, I boarded the Florida Bus that can be found in Lacson Street, Sampaloc,Manila near the University of Santo Tomas in Espana, Manila. They also have a bus station in Kamias, EDSA, in Cubao, Manila. I took a bus going to Tuguegarao. I cannot estimate the duration of the trip since I dropped off at Isabela and roamed around; slept at a friend's house in a far-away barrio. In the morning, I took a bus from Isabela to Tuguegarao. In Tuguegarao, in front of Jollibee Tanza, there is a van going to Tabuk, Kalinga. It was a scenic trip from Tuguegarao to Tabuk. Since I was not mindful of the time, I got stuck in Tabuk with no available Jeepney to Tinglayan at that time I arrived. I waited another day. The next day, I boarded a jeepney, on topload and headed to Tinglayan. It was a trip of mountains, zigzags, and rice terraces in 360 degrees.









































In Tinglayan, I got stuck due to heavy rains. I slept at the Sleeping Beauty Inn, in that room where you have to cross the hanging foot bridge, where you cross the river.I felt that was more adventurous than staying in a room near the road.


After 2 days in Sleeping Beauty, I rode a jeepney to Butbut. It was very beautiful highlands road trip on the top of the rugged vehicle. And I would say that is the best place in a vehicle when you go to Butbut.

In Butbut, the black native pigs play in the middle of the road. From there, you can see well-maintained rice terraces. That would be a good motivation for the start of the trek on a muddy trail.

The trek is friendly. You can even rent a motorbike, if there is, to go to the end of the road. That was my wish. But actually, there is none to rent. Ahaha. It took me 2 hours, which for some will only take 45 minutes. I am not a climber, a trekker. I walk at my own pace. My motto of determination: I will get there!

If you have been to Tappia Falls in Batad, Ifugao, the cemented stairs and paths are similar. Look at your next step, or else you go down the cliff. I was looking up all the time, as the hills here looks like the ones in Calayan Island in Babuyan Islands.Ohno, I did not go down the ravine.

Whenever I stop, I just breathe a lot of oxygen. How long will it be to reach Whang-Od? It was an uphill and downhill trek. And everytime, Francis Pa-in would tell me, "it is near". Then he will point at the third mountain.

At last, I reached Wang-Od (Fang-Od, Whang-Od). And I was excited to get inked. Since there are a lot of people in line, I had to wait for my turn. And my turn was the next day. I slept at Whang-Od's sister's room. I bought some canned goods at the nearby store. Whang-Od cooked the rice I ate, from lunch to dinner to breakfast, on the next day. Whang-Od's relatives would tell how much the fee is.Whang-Od speak the language of the tribe and can understand only that too. Ready for sign language? Will not work. But people around can translate for her. Isn't that so authentic?

I never thought of how much Whang-Od would charge me for my tatt. That was not even my concern. My purpose of going there is to get inked authentically by a real tattooed woman, and a real tribe artist, Whang-Od. I can pay her with so much. But to me, everything is price-LESS! No amount of money can equal to my experience. And if you have read my other posts on my ink and Whang-Od, I now believe that she indeed, made a ritual chant for my tatt.






































They say, tribal inks are only for warriors who headhunt. I believe that the ink I got is just a small reward for what I have been thru in my life, with all my valor and all to survive. As I said, when I am free-er, I will get more inked, big time.

I do not need to bring a head to Whang-Od to get my tatt. I think she surmised that I deserve to get inked. Not because I trekked more than 2 hours, but because I am alive to this day, after all the challenges I have been through in this life.

When you go and see her, you will understand what I just wrote. And I hope that you see what I have seen. And I hope you realize why you have to get inked by Whang-Od in faraway Buscalan, Kalinga, Philippines.

Have a nice ink!


You may also want to read:

Kalinga: Buscalan’s Wang-Od, the Pretty Tattoo Artist

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A Letter to the Traditional Tattoo Aspirant! :)

June 12, 2015

It had always been an honor to have been asked  how to go to Wang Od.

I loved chatting with the traditional tattoo aspirants from all over the world.

I have mentioned in the link above that everyone who read this can chat me in my facebook account.

But mails get into some other inbox which I cannot see right away.

Hence I am appending this post.

How to see Wang Od?

1. Ride a Victory Liner bus in EDSA, in Cubao, bound to Tabuk.

2. From Tabuk, look for a bus or a jeepney bound to Tinglayan. A long ride of  mountain views and rice terraces. Please topload. :) It will be best.

3. From Tingalayan, ride a jeepney to Butbut. A short ride. Again, best adventure is to topload! happy viewing!

4. From Butbut, trek to Buscalan Village. It is a 45 minute trek for trekkers, 2 hours for a slow walker like me who stops to smell the flowers and who savors the smell of the grasslands.

Please say hello to WangOd for me! And to her sisters as well and to Grace too!

Have a nice ink!

Please see / click this for a Tour Guide & his contact number: FRANCIS PAIN

Please mention me. Say hello to Francis for me please! ;)