Kalinga: Whang-Od's More Than A Second of Pain Artwork In Me

Fang-od and her artwork in me.
a second of pain.
as she said, "enjoy the pain. no pain, no gain."

the grand daughter of Fang-Od persuaded me to record it on video. that is Gretchen's voice you will hear saying, "Oh she is crying." Fang-Od was smiling. but was focused on her passion, to ink me.  I couldn't scream anymore as the native pigs get irritated and come out as if to check who is over reacting to Fang-Od's strokes. my tolerance to pain may not be as high as yours.

Ouchie.

Kalinga: Authentically Tattooed

Having a tattoo had always been in my mind. But many factors limit me from doing so. Like my hair braids, that I try to have when am on a long vacation, away from the confines of a conventional world that I choose to live in. So whenever I can, I let my skin get inked with henna.









Deep within my heart is a raging spirit of love for the native, tribal, and authentic; of the world of the ancient times and the beginnings. Being different from the normal scheme of things, for me, is what makes me sensible and tranquil. Sometimes, I want to think and believe that I come from a tribe. This got me thinking seriously when I was in South Cotabato, particularly in Lake Sebu, where the the Tboli tribe exist. Instead of asking me a usual “where are you from?” or “where do you live?”, the Tboli woman spontaneously asked me, that left me stunned until today, “from what tribe are you?”


In past travels, I have found myself amazed at the Mangyans of Occidental Mindoro, Igorots of Mountain Province, Aetas of Zambales, Tagbanuas of Coron Island, Palawan. And am on my way at finding the Negritos of Apayao Mountains, who I have seen in my childhood days, the Manobos of Bukidnon, and search for more tribes. That faraway island, Babuyan Claro, whose Chieftain I met in a ferry ride upnorth, left me with so much interest of ancestral domains.


So, here I am, in Kalinga, at Tinglayan Tribe, savoring every word they utter at their language. It is more than a song to my ears.


This unscathed landscape with beautiful mountain ranges and well-sustained rice terraces is an ancestral domain.






Mount Mating-oy or Sleeping Beauty Mountain at sunrise


The rainy ambiance cools down my mind and pushes me to think clearly of things to come.






Two-hour trek away is where the oldest tattoo artist or “mambabatok” dwells; by the name of Fang-Od, as natives call her. Her name is spelled as Wang-Od or Whang-od, says her niece.





Wang-Od, Fang-Od or Whang-Od: the oldest Kalinga Mambabatok (Tattoo Artist)


Earlier, I have already seen the fine-looking, eccentric inks in the skins of two well-designed women, Chummangyag and Uwong. And I am struck with admiration. In Buscalan village, the sister of Fang-Od, named Kanna, is also skilfully tattooed.






with Chummangyag, with my all-time necklace (she requested it) :)





with Uwong, the mother of Francis Pa-in, the tour guide







with Kanna, the sister of Fang-Od


In my desire of authenticity of my existence, I am certain to get painted with a symbol that will be marked in my being; that according to Kalinga belief, a tattoo that will not be left on my body on earth, but will soar to the heavenly paradise with my soul, when my life reaches its conclusion in this world of great magnificence.





Fang-Od wearing the headware that I gave


Like my tattoo, may I leave a mark in the hearts that are touched in the things that I love to do; in the lives of people who are stroked by the goodness and the happiness that I spread in my not so ordinary travels.





ouchie!






I am Authentically Tattooed. In me. And in you.


Ammodnan ayat on si~a!


(May all the love be with you!)

A Year of Journeying in 2012: The Real Solo (Part 2)

In February, finding myself in Dumaguete and having bites of one of my favorite desserts, Silvannas, was more important than finding a place to stay in for the night. Am just so lucky I was able to find a place to stay after walking around. 

Finding Casaroro Falls by myself, after being left by the motorcycle driver, was scary but overwhelming. The sight of the waterfalls seemingly hiding itself was refreshing after bouldering. The recent typhoon washed away the pathwalk. But I managed to climb the big rocks. Being alone with the waterfalls on an early morning made me love looking for more during my travels. The quietness of just watching it made me realize what I would love to do, waterfalling.

Since I started the year travelling & finding old friends, I was sure I would be looking for more friends of the past during my travels within the year. Not for reunion purposes, but more of making friendships real and not stuck to some cyberspace. I love to hug & kiss my friends. It makes everyone of us younger and feels even better. I am sure of that. Now, I already miss them all.

Also, I was so sure to find more waterfalls. Not just for the sight of its melodious rampage that is left in my ears, but more of the calmness it supplies my mind and heart. It is more of the excitement and rejuvenation it provides to my entire being to courageously face the actuality of the world.

Kalinga: Francis Pa~in, The Passionate Tour Guide

He came dashing in the Sleeping Beauty Inn. I shook his hand. He started talking. About the people he has guided here, in the ancestral domain of Tinglayan, Kalinga. 

His visitors were from the famous Filipino celebrities of the blogosphere, television and academe; some are simple but enthusiastic travellers. He has escorted numerous foreigners from all over the world. He showed me the currency that had been given to him; paper bills from Kenya, Tazmania, Japan, Malaysia, Vietnam, among others. He also humbly mentioned that his name is written in two travel books, as the tour guide of Kalinga.

A Year of Journeying in 2012: The Real Solo (Part 1)

Whenever I look at my travel calendar of the year 2012, it amazes me. It is marked with places I have been to. Some planned ahead, some impromptu. Some trips are with some travel bloggers, or with travellers whenever they feel like travelling with me, especially when I am in their territories.

Since I have been travelling more, most of these travels remain un~blogged and untold.

Today, as I look back, let me try to integrate how it has been.

In January, meeting friends in Singapore had been overwhelming. Having five sets of friends from different parts of my existence was wonderful: Yam from previous work; Peegees (Ena, Leng, Dioms & Jane) of Laguna, also from previous work; Sheng, a childhood summer friend and neighbour at folks’ hometown; Auntie Haidee; and Viv, a close college classmate. 

Having been treated with so much hospitality bonded the friendship with stronger security. Sometimes, own plans are given up as friendship is more treasured and considered more important. Having dinner, sleeping together, or just walking around the Merlion City, talking, laughing, or crying were even better than watching the musical light show at the Marina Bay Sands. Listening to how they have progressed with their lives, their future plans, and how they have been was truly enriching.

Since I started the year travelling & finding old friends, I was sure I would be looking for more friends of the past during my travels within the year. Not for reunion purposes, but more of making friendships real and not stuck to some cyberspace. I love to hug & kiss my friends. It makes everyone of us younger and feels even better. I am sure of that. Now, I already miss them all.

***********************************

This is the first part of the series:

A Year of Journeying in 2012: The Real Solo 

My Unforgettable North Luzon Journey

Being assigned as the “byahera” (that’s how I label what I do and make it a blessing) for North Luzon stores has enriched my life.

The moment when I touched down at every destination, 38 all in all – after a really long land travel along McArthur Hi-way, made my heart calm down; I feel safe.

Arriving in sunglasses, pretending to be a customer, was the most exciting thing. Then those who do not know me would think I was who they were all getting prepared for and get gold. :) Dah-ha.

Seeing teams happily smiling, or in spite of loads of tasks to do – relieves me of the monotony of my long travel.

And it starts to energize my every muscle.

Knowing a little bit or a little bit more about their lives has touched me.

Their thoughtfulness and sweetness had made me so, too.

Their courage made me brave-r. Such that when stormy days follow me during my visits, I stay alive and still see them.:) 

Those simple kumustahan secured me that they are all right. If not so, I hoped to have enlivened them, and made them overcome and move on.

Being inside those cubes would take my breath away, literally. I usually stay somewhere open.

They know very well how absorbed I am to stay in their territories. And how i try to be awake to catch the graveyard and witness the closing event. They have seen me chase buses.

But I chose to stuck myself, talking and dining with them in the four walls of their comfort zones. And i loved that. I loved listening to the stories of their lives and dreams. And understanding the circumstances of their daily living.

Hence I did not get to roam around  and see which places they spend their rest days.

But I chose to explore around during my rest days and planned vacation. :)

Journey, visit Kapurpurawan & the monstrous Windmills, Laoag! Also, Vigan at night is romantic. Ilocandia never fail to amaze me. Your e-tour is worth exploring it in the actual.

Apayao: Church Ruins in Mataguisi

the locals asked me, who do you know? i replied, none. what will you do there? see the church ruins. they did not want to bring me there. 

i had been to pudtol,  apayao once in April 2012. but i only saw the church ruins near the municipal hall.  i told them so.

they said it was not safe. i can sense from their ilocano conversations. as i understand a bit. one said, what if some people might just want to kill him? another one said, there are some uniformed men around the area. in short, they were all discouraging me. i did not know if i would like to even believe what they were saying. one tricycle driver said that it was not worth the money he will earn if he takes me there. he was even undecided. they were also saying that we had to notify the police station that we would go there.

maybe they thought i would back out and not proceed. i was even more determined to go after hearing all that they said. but  a lot of what ifs were playing in my mind. i forgot my knife and i have not replaced my lost whistle.

with a braveheart,  i went to mataguisi in apayao, to see the church ruins. though i have seen a majestic one in fuga, this was still a beautiful structure.